
I’m going with an American favorite this month – fried
chicken. But not fried breasts or
thighs, since because of their size, they can be difficult to cook evenly. I’m using the wings. And I have a double-fry technique that will
produce a crisp, crackly exterior and a juicy interior. Add to this a complex sweet, savory, and
spicy sauce that just coats the wings, and you’ve got a perfectly balanced,
winning combination. In addition, I’m
offering a tangy slaw that’s a bit off the beaten path from your
run-of-the-mill coleslaw. I think you’ll
like this medley of flavors and textures.
Before I get into the recipe, let’s talk a bit about
frying. The secret to achieving crisp
and non-greasy fried food is found in maintaining the proper temperature of the
frying oil. That said, I have come
across one of those spiral bound and heavily stained hometown recipe books
usually put out by the blue-haired ladies-of-the-church (and always a veritable
treasure trove of Americana) which professes the secret to perfect fried
chicken to be “peanut oil and Jesus.” And
I really can’t argue with that. So, here’s
the bottom line: If your temperature is
too high, the surface burns before the food is cooked through. If the temperature is too low, the crust
forms slowly and allows the food to absorb more fat and become oily. We need a happy medium, which is generally
between 350° and 375°. At this
temperature, when the meat makes contact with the hot oil, its surface
dehydrates and forms a crust that prevents further oil absorption while still
continuing to conduct heat to the interior of the food. This all leads me to recommend one buy an
instant-read laser thermometer– a fairly inexpensive device worth every
penny. It takes the guess work out of
frying.
Double Fried Chicken Wings
3-4 pounds chicken wings, cut in two at the joints, tips
discarded
Spicy/Sweet Wing
Sauce
1 TB sesame oil
1 garlic clove, minced to paste
1 tsp grated fresh ginger
¼ cup water
3 TB sugar
3 TB gochujang (Korean chile sauce)
1 TB soy sauce
In large bowl (because you’re going to add fried wings to
this later), mix sesame oil, garlic, and ginger. Microwave for about 40 seconds, until ginger
and garlic are fragrant but not browned.
Whisk in remaining ingredients until sauce is smooth.
Heat peanut oil over medium-high heat to 350° in large,
heavy pan. Mine has a 9-inch diameter
and is 5 inches deep. I pour in about 2
½ - 3 inches of oil.
Batter
In a large bowl, whisk until smooth:
1 cup flour
3 TB cornstarch
1 ½ cups water
Place half wings in batter and stir to coat. Using tongs, pick out wings, one at a time,
letting excess batter drip back into bowl, and add to hot oil, turning heat up
to maintain temperature. I fry 6 at a
time, so the temperature doesn’t drop drastically. Fry about 7 minutes, until coating is light
golden and beginning to crisp. Transfer
wings to rack. Return oil to 350° and
continue frying remaining wings in batches, removing to rack.
Increase heat to 375°.
Add fried wings in batches of 6-8 and fry until deep golden brown and
very crispy – about 5-6 minutes.
Transfer to rack and let sit 2-3 minutes. Transfer wings to sauce and toss until
coated.
Now, about that double-frying: Double-fried wings are crisper and crunchier,
even with the sauce, than single-fried wings.
The meat is also juicier. Chicken
skin contains a lot of moisture, so to produce a crisp crust, you need to
remove as much moisture from the skin as possible before the meat
overcooks. By single-frying, the meat
would be over-cooked before the moisture is driven out of the skin and the
remaining moisture makes its way to the crust and turns it soggy. Double-frying avoids this. Interrupting the cooking and having a brief
cool-down period slows the cooking of the meat itself so you can increase the
overall cooking time and expel excess moisture from the skin, resulting in
juicy meat and crisp skin.
Now, for the step-by-steps.
First the sauce:
soy sauce
gochujang
sesame oil
water
sugar
ginger
garlic

I ran the garlic and ginger through a press and scraped it into a bowl.
Add in the sesame oil and stir.

Nuke until fragrant.
Add in water.
Stir in sugar.
Whisk in gochujang.
And the soy.
Whisky! Whisky!
And sauce is ready.
Now a simple batter:
Flour
Cornstarch
Water
Whisk until smooth.
Get you one of those
big packs of chicken wings.
3-4 pounds
Cut off the tips and discard.
Cut at the joint.
Wings go into batter.
Shake off excess batter.
Place wings in hot oil,
one at a time.
Don't overcrowd the pan.
Maybe 6-8 at a time.
After about 7 minutes, remove from oil and place on rack.
Let oil come back up to temperature and continue frying the wings.
Here's my frying station.
Wings
Batter
Hot oil
This is the first frying.
350° 6-7 minutes
Now, the second fry,
375° for about 5-6 minutes.
Single fried on the left.
Double fried on the right.
Continue frying
and let wings rest on rack.

Then add wings to bowl of sauce and toss to coat.
 |
Perfectly fried wings.
|
Crisp and crackling on the outside.
Moist, juicy, and tender on the inside.
And, oh!
That sauce.
As for a side dish to fried chicken, you can’t go wrong
with slaw. I know everybody’s got a
recipe for coleslaw, however, this cabbage salad is just a tad different. It’s bright, tangy, nutty, appley, and
cheesy. And it will complement those
wings perfectly.

Red Cabbage Salad
1 small red cabbage, sliced
First, marinate the cabbage.
In a small saucepan, combine:
½ cup apple cider vinegar
1 minced garlic clove
4-5 sprigs fresh thyme leaves
Pinch Kosher salt
Bring to a simmer, then pour over the sliced cabbage. Toss to combine. Let sit at least an hour. I let mine sit for several hours and it gets to a lovely and wonderful color.
marinade.
Pour marinade over sliced cabbage.
Let the cabbage marinate for a few hours. Come in every now and then and toss.
Then drain.
Prepare dressing:
¼ cup cider vinegar
¼ cup Dijon mustard
⅔ cup neutral-flavored oil (I used grapeseed oil because I had it. Otherwise, my go-to oil is Bertolli extra
light olive oil.)
Pinch kosher salt
Few grinds of pepper
Whisk vinegar and mustard until well-combined, Very slowly, drizzle in the oil, whisking
constantly to incorporate and make a perfectly smooth emulsion. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Whisk vinegar
and mustard.
Slowly whisk in oil.
Season to taste.
Drain marinade from cabbage and add additional
ingredients:
1 cup chopped walnuts, toasted (to intensify the flavor)
1 or 2 Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled, and cut into
matchsticks
Gruyère cheese, cut into matchsticks (about ½ - 1 cup)
Endive leaves, sliced into strips (about 1 cup)
Combine all ingredients, then pour dressing over top and
toss.
Enjoy!