It’s summertime and the livin’ is hot. What better way to cool down and re-energize
than by consuming that wonderfully refreshing Sicilian thirst-quencher – the
intensely flavored ice known as granita.
Back in the Middle Ages, the Sicilian colonizers – Romans, Greeks,
Spanish, and Arabs – used to harvest the snow of Mount Etna and pack it into stone
grottoes along the slopes. The nevaroli, or snow-gatherers, would
retrieve their chilly treasures from the slopes during the sizzling summer
months, and haul the blocks of snow to the city to concoct those half-frozen
crystalline mixtures of water and sugar, flavored with rose petals or jasmine,
cocoa or coffee, wine or sweetened fruit essences, including their wonderful
Sicilian lemons.
A granita is typically a dessert item or a palate cleanser
(although it can certainly be enjoyed on its own) made with sugar syrup and
fresh fruit juice. The liquid is frozen
in a shallow pan and raked with the tines of a fork every half-hour or so to
break up the forming crystals, resulting in a fluff of tiny prickles of
flavored ice. The texture of a granita
can vary, as it does throughout Sicily itself, but it’s not an ice cream or a
smoothie which are smooth-textured and creamy, and it’s not a sorbet, which goes
into an ice cream machine, resulting in a more compact and smoother textured
product which will melt pleasingly on the tongue. The texture of a granita is somewhere between
that of a sorbet and a sno-cone . It’s
flaky and that makes it unique. The ice
has the momentary, fleeting, and slightly alarming feel of little shards
landing on one’s tongue, and then spreading into refreshment.
Classic Italian granita needs to be made by hand to achieve
those flakes of ice. You need no special
equipment. All you need is a fork to go
from granular to flaky consistency.
Every granita starts out with a simple syrup, which is a
mixture of water and sugar in differing proportions, usually around one part
sugar to two parts water. The sugar and
water mixture is brought to a boil and then simmered until the sugar
dissolves. Fruit purée and/or fruit
juices are added to the simple syrup and the mixture is poured into a shallow
pan and placed in the freezer. Every 30
minutes for several hours, the mixture is raked with a fork, the outside
scraped towards the center. The sugar content of fruits varies, so the simple
syrup ratio may need to be adjusted, depending on what fruit you’re using. The
size of the crystals in a granita depends on the amount of sugar in the
mix. The less sugar, the larger the ice
crystals. Too much sugar and you get
slush. You can make a large batch of simple syrup and store in the refrigerator,
covered, for up to a month. Now, you’re able to make different fruity ices
throughout the coming weeks. The plus
here is your simple syrup will already be cold so your granita will freeze a
lot quicker. Once you’ve learned the
basic technique, you’re open to a world of icy fruit and flavor combinations.
Granitas
are best enjoyed at their peak of perfection - after three to four hours with
intermittent raking. If you have any
leftover the next day, which rarely happens, set the dish out, let it thaw a
bit, and rake again with a fork.
I've made granitas before. Lovely granitas.
Peach Granita
Serves 4-6.
3 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and coarse-chopped
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
½ tsp cinnamon
Pinch sea salt or kosher salt
Blueberries
Make your simple syrup by combining water and sugar in a
small saucepan over medium high heat.
Bring to boil, reduce heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar
dissolves. Remove from heat and
cool.
In a blender, purée peaches with simple syrup, lemon juice,
cinnamon, and salt. Transfer to an
8-inch square baking dish. Freeze for about
3-4 hours, raking with a fork every 30 minutes or so, scraping the icy outside
pieces into the middle.
Serve with a garnish of blueberries.
Strawberry, Kiwi, And Basil Granita
Serves 4-6.
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
1 heaping cup hulled strawberries, sliced
1 kiwi, peeled and sliced
Small handful of fresh basil leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
⅛ cup balsamic vinegar
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
1 heaping cup hulled strawberries, sliced
1 kiwi, peeled and sliced
Small handful of fresh basil leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
⅛ cup balsamic vinegar
Freshly cracked black pepper
Pinch of sea salt or kosher salt
Pinch of sea salt or kosher salt
Prepare the simple syrup and let cool.
In a processor, combine strawberries, kiwi, basil,
lemon juice, and simple syrup. Process until thoroughly combined. Pour into 8 x 8 inch baking pan and place in
freezer for 2-3 hours. Every 30
minutes or so, fork the icy edges into the middle to incorporate. Spread the mixture evenly and place
back in the freezer.
For the Balsamic Vinegar:
In a small bowl, combine the balsamic vinegar with a liberal amount of freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of sea salt. Stir to combine.
Give the granita a scant drizzle over top and garnish with a small sprig of basil and kiwi and strawberry slices.
In a small bowl, combine the balsamic vinegar with a liberal amount of freshly cracked black pepper and a pinch of sea salt. Stir to combine.
Give the granita a scant drizzle over top and garnish with a small sprig of basil and kiwi and strawberry slices.
Sunset Orange Granita
Serves 4-6.
juice of 6 oranges
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
juice of 1 lime
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
juice of 1 lime
Maraschino cherries and juice
Make a simple syrup with water and sugar and let cool.
Thoroughly mix orange juice, simple syrup, and lime
juice. Pour into an eight-inch square
baking dish. Set in freezer. Rake with fork every 30 minutes for 3-4
hours.
For a pretty presentation, I serve these in an orange
cup. Top with a few maraschino cherries
and drizzle a little cherry juice over top.
Pineapple Granita
Serves 6-8.
1 fresh pineapple, peeled, cored, and chopped
½ cup water
¼ cup sugar
Juice of one lime
Zest of one lime
Prepare the simple syrup and let cool.
In a blender, combine pineapple, simple syrup, and lime
juice. Process until smooth. Pour into a 9 x 11-inch pan. Set in freezer and rake with a fork every
30-40 minutes for 3-4 hours.
Spoon granita into a dish, garnish with strawberry slices,
and sprinkle lime zest over top.
Cucumber/Lime/Mint Granita
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, and coarse-chopped
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup mint leaves
1 lime, zested and juiced
Prepare the simple syrup. Add in mint leaves and bring to boil. Simmer until sugar is dissolved.
When sugar is dissolved, turn off heat and let mint steep for 30 minutes.
Add cucumber, lime zest and juice to processor. Add mint simple syrup to mixture through a strainer, pressing to extract all the minty flavor. Process. Pour into 8 x 8-inch dish and freeze, raking with a fork every 30 minutes for about three hours.
Stay tuned for the boozy granitas.
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